mercredi 23 avril 2008

Ramsay, yeah!

So I just went to Ramsay's new mid-range restaurant IN VERSAILLES, "La Véranda". It has a view on the park of the castle, the part that looks like some very neat country-side, with horses, sheeps, cows and benches. And it was good. It was very good.

All I knew from Ramsay was "Kitchen Nightmares" -a show that I love and find admirable- and his autobiography. I admire the man, and I really hoped that his food would not disappoint. Now it is of course too soon for me to judge Ramsay on the whole (unlike Ducasse), and I hope to be able to report on the gastronomic restaurant soon. But meanwhile, the meal I and other bloggers had at la Véranda was very perfect.

I started with a dish that looked, I must say, quite English. But this tagliatelle with blue lobster was remarkably good. Pasta were very tasty, with this mix of melty and firm typical of good fresh pasta. Maybe the half lobster tail was a tad overcooked. But the mix of sage, saffron, parmesan and tomato was the trademark of a really good chef. It was subtle and powerful, and mostly, did I mention, very good. My young neighbour had a very good risotto with chorizo and parmesan, which was remarkably good too -- it's easy to have a dish named risotto in Paris, but having one that is better that boiled rice is difficult. This one was.

The star of the show was a veal T-Bone that could have reminded many French top restaurants what perfect and precise cooking means. Everything was simple and perfect, starting with the melty potatoes on the side, a salad of many herbs that was well sorted and joyfully fresh. The béarnaise was perfect too. Thyme and rosemary were actually fried and edable.

(The risotto kid had a lamb too, that was delicious.)

Desserts were no disappointment either, especially a vanilla crême brulée with granny smith apple that was super fine tuned and well made. It is a really thought through dessert, well implemented. Another star was the famous coulant au chocolat, let me show you. It was perfectly dosed too, with the exact amount of sugar that tames the bitterness of the cocoa but adds no sugar taste. The caramel ice-cream on the side was smartly and vigorously salted, presenting another approach to the famous chocolate-salt pairing that Conticini put forward.

My overwhelming impression was that there is a really good chef in this kitchen, one that could teach lessons to many of us arrogant frogs. This was all simple and well made. Plus there is tons of room. Couches could seat Horton the elephant, table of five could seat twelve, and there's that very pleasant view and light. The wine list is short but hard to chose from because of its careful selection. That was an 85 eur meal, including one bottle of Chateau Simone (80 euros) for five.

You know, on the one hand, it was so good that I want to try the gastronomic restaurant asap. On the other hand, I am not sure how it could be much better with the same style. Anyway, stay tuned

4 commentaires:

Chrisos a dit…

ça confirme que les critiques franchouillards ont du mal à admettre qu'un Ecossais (et son chef Italien) soit capable de faire des très bonnes choses, merci, j'irai bientôt!

Julot-les-pinceaux a dit…

C'est aussi ce qu'écrit Ptipois. En même temps, peu de critiques français ont même prétendu être venus manger, de sorte qu'ils ont eu peu d'occasion d'être d'une mauvaise foi fragrante.

Anonyme a dit…

I love Ramsay and his potty mouth on Kitchen Nightmares! Looks like you had some wonderful food.

- a dit…

Je ne peux que confirmer votre critique. Cadre, service, carte, j'ai vraiment apprécié. Cela dit, ce n'est pas Gordon Ramsay qui officie à la Véranda mais un chef italien (d'où un excellent risotto préparé dans une meule de parmesan).